Around Africa: Part Six

In which I explored Abu Simbel

15.12.2023: Tour Day 4, City 5

Abu Simbel is a village in the Egyptian part of Nubia, about 240 km southwest of Aswan and near the border with Sudan. It is an ancient temple complex, originally cut into a solid rock cliff and located at the second cataract of the Nile River. The two temples which comprise the site were created during the reign of Ramesses II. The Swiss explorer Burckhardt was led to the site by a boy named Abu Simbel in 1813 CE and the site was then named after him. The complex was relocated in its entirety in 1968 to higher ground to avoid it being submerged by Lake Nasser. We reached the main gate at 11am, scanned the tickets and walked our way to the temple, viewing the mesmerizing lake Nasser, reached the temple at 11:15am and met our tour guide Tiger. He explained the story through images and his unique style. We just had an hour at this beautiful place surrounded by water.

The Great temple

It was dedicated to the gods Amun, Ra, Ptah and deified Ramesses himself. The single entrance is flanked by four colossal, 20 m (66 ft) statues, each representing Ramesses II seated on a throne and wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. The façade behind the colossi carries a frieze depicting twenty-two baboons worshipping the rising sun with upraised arms and a stele recording the marriage of Ramesses to a daughter of king Ḫattušili III, which sealed the peace between Egypt and the Hittites. 

Passing between the colossi, through the central entrance, the interior of the temple is decorated with engravings showing Ramesses and Nefertari paying homage to the gods. Ramesses' great victory at Kadesh is also depicted in detail across the north wall of the Hypostyle Hall. The colossal statues along the left-hand wall bear the white crown of Upper Egypt, while those on the opposite side are wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. 

There is a transverse vestibule, in the middle of which is the entrance to the sanctuary. Here, on a black wall, are rock cut sculptures of four seated figures: the deified king Ramesses, and the gods Amun, Ra and Ptah. 

It is believed that the axis of the temple was positioned by the ancient Egyptian architects in such a way that on October 22 and February 22, the rays of the sun would penetrate the sanctuary and illuminate the sculptures on the back wall, except for the statue of Ptah, a god connected with the realm of the dead, who always remained in the dark. These dates are allegedly the king's birthday and coronation day, respectively.

The Small temple

It was built about 100m northeast of the temple of Ramesses II and was dedicated to the goddess Hathor and Ramesses II's chief consort, Nefertari. The rock-cut facade is decorated with two groups of colossi that are separated by the large gateway. The statues, slightly more than 10 m (33 ft) high, are of the king and his queen. The capitals of the pillars bear the face of the goddess Hathor. The bas-reliefs in the pillared hall illustrate the deification of the king, the destruction of his enemies in the north and south, and the queen making offerings to the goddesses Hathor and Mut. 

Goddess Hathor and Mut blessing Nefertari

The hypostyle hall is followed by a vestibule, access to which is given by three large doors. On the south and the north walls of this chamber there are two graceful and poetic bas-reliefs of the king and his consort presenting papyrus plants to Hathor, who is depicted as a cow on a boat sailing in a thicket of papyri. 

On the west wall, Ramesses II and Nefertari are depicted making offerings to the god Horus and the divinities of the Cataracts—Satis, Anubis and Khnum.

Read next: Around Africa: Part Seven