Around Africa: Part Eight

In which I explored Philae Temple

16.12.2023: Tour Day 5, City 6

Perched on an island in the Nile River, Philae Temple is ancient history that’s been saved stone by stone. A relocation effort moved it to Agilkia Island when it was threatened by flooding; so that we can still admire hieroglyphic reliefs abutting soaring columns and sanctuaries dedicated to the ancient gods Osiris, Horus, Isis, and Hathor. The Philae Temple is an important symbol in Egyptian culture because it represents the power of Isis as a protector and patron goddess. In ancient Egypt, Isis was believed to be a powerful deity who could protect people from harm and bring them luck. She was also thought to be able to grant wishes and heal illnesses. As a result, many people would come to the temple seeking her help or protection. 

We left the ferry and walked through a bridge to reach the temple. On the way, there were as usual a spread of souvenirs for sale. We had to climb stairs to the temple entrance. The temple complex consists of the Kiosk of Nectanebo I, Temple of Arsenophis, Temple of Mandoulis, East and West Colonnade, Temple of Isis, Temple of Hathor, Kiosk of Trajan and the Gate of Hadrin. 

Kiosk of Nectanebo I

The kiosk or vestibule of Nectanebo is a pillared hall which originally had 14 Hathor-headed columns (only six remain) linked by six-foot high walls topped by a row of concave cornices and uraeus-serpents. The walls are decorated with reliefs showing Nectanebo sacrificing to the gods.

Forecourt is the large, paved, trapezoidal area in front of the Temple of Isis. It is flanked by two colonnades on its eastern and western ends. The 77 meters long western colonnade with 32 columns and 12 openings in the rear wall was decorated under Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, and Nero and served as a pronaos of the sanctuaries located on the neighboring abaton. 

The 42 meter long, largely unfinished first eastern colonnade with 16 columns functioned as a common vestibule for the sanctuaries located behind the rear wal, which were accessible through six doors.

Temple of Isis

The first pylon consists of two 60 foot towers with a gate between them. There are grooves cut into each side of the pylon to support flag poles. In front of the main gateway to the first pylon stand two Roman style lions carved from pink granite. Parts of this pylon date back as early as to the time of Nectanebo I. At the base of the first pylon a series of small personified Nile figures present offerings. The Mammisi (birth-house) is located on the western flank of the inner courtyard. It is surrounded on three sides by a colonnade of floral topped columns each crowned with a sistrum and Hathor-headed capital. On the eastern side of the inner courtyard (opposite the Mammisi) there is a colonnade with access to a few small storerooms and in the north the second pylon provides access to the main structure of the Temple of Isis.

The second pylon is approximately 105 foot wide and 40 foot high and is not set parallel to the first Pylon. A series of small steps lead to the gateway between the two towers. The pylon towers depict scenes of Pharoahs making offerings to the gods. A staircase in the western tower leads to the roof and the “Osirian Chambers”. Beyond the hypostyle hall there lie three vestibules, leading into the Inner Sanctuary of Isis.

Temple of Imhotep was located behind the northern end of the rear wall of the first eastern colonnade. It was dedicated by Ptolemy V, possibly in gratitude for the birth of his son Ptolemy VI. The modest temple of the Nubian god Arensnuphis, located on the southern end of the eastern colonnade, was erected on the remains of an older building. 

The Gateway of Emperor Hadrian, is a long corridor-like passage with decorated side walls and a now lost columned porch attached to its west exit.

Temple of Hathor

The cult of the temple focused on Hathor as embodiment of the Sun’s Eye that was brought back from Nubia. The temple consists of a colonnaded kiosk bearing 14 Hathor-headed pillars, a pronaos (vestibule) and a cult terrace facing the Nile River. The best-preserved part of the structure is the main temple chamber, on the front of which are two plant columns linked to the walls by screens. Among the temple's most impressive reliefs is one depicting a group of musicians performing before an assembly of ancient Egyptian deities.

Kiosk of Trajan

The Kiosk of Trajan originally served as the main entrance into the temple from the river. It is attributed to the Roman emperor Trajan, who gave it its current decorations. Inside are reliefs showing Trajan as a pharaoh making offerings to Osiris, Isis and Horus. The fourteen columns of the Trajan's Kiosk are connected by screening walls, containing the (peek outside) hieroglaphic inscriptions and other carvings.

We wondered at the temple complex till 12.30pm and were back to the bus via ferry by 12:45pm. We reached the cruise for lunch at 1:45pm and it sailed off to Kom Ombo. 

I skipped the high tea at 4pm for a much needed nap and then we left the cruise for Kom Ombo temple by 5pm. We had to walk all the way to the temple for 20 minutes, I had a small chat with Sucharita Chowdhury. She has joined the tour with her family, Sujit Chowdhury and their children Krish and Ankush. The sun was on the verge of saying goodbye. More on the temple in next post.

Read next: Around Africa: Part Nine