Around Africa: Part Nine

In which I explored Kom Ombo Temple

16.12.2023: Tour Day 5, City 7

The building is unique because its 'double' design meant that there were courts, halls, sanctuaries and rooms duplicated for two sets of gods. The temple is atypical because everything is perfectly symmetrical along the main axis. Two themes were present in this temple: the universalist theme and the local theme. The two combine to form the theology of this temple. 

The Southern portion of the temple was not just dedicated to Sobek, the god of fertility, but also to Hathor, the goddess of love and joy, and Khonsu, the god of the moon. In this portion of the temple there are many crocodile representations to pay homage to Sobek. This part of the temple is also called “House of the Crocodile.” 

The Northern portion of the temple was dedicated mainly to Horus, god of the sun, and also Tasenetnofret, meaning “the good sister,” and a manifestation of Hathor, and Panebtaway, meaning “the Lord of two lands” which represented Egyptian kingship. In this part of the temple, there are many representations of falcons to pay homage to the falcon-headed god, Horus. This part of the temple is also called “Castle of the Falcon.”

Entering into the main court, there are 16 painted columns, eight on each side of the court. A granite altar sits in the center of the main court, likely where the sacred boat was placed. On the rear wall of the main court are five lotus-shaped columns along with a screen wall. Two entrances, one for each deity, open up here. Through both entrances lies the first Hypostyle hall. There are ten lotus-shaped columns here with the middle two separating the two halves of the hall. Separate entrances guide visitors into the second Hypostyle hall known as “The Hall of Offering”. Beyond this Hall of Offering are three antechambers, now all nearly destroyed. Curiously, the twin sanctuaries which are found beyond the antechambers are separated by a hidden chamber. A dual passageway runs the perimeter of the entire temple and there are seven additional rooms along the interior passage. A staircase leads to the roof.

A huge number of crocodiles once roamed the area inside and around the Kom Ombo temple. More than 300 crocodile mummies were found at the Kom Ombo temple and now reside in the Crocodile Museum. We reached the museum at 6pm. This unique museum showcases artifacts, mummified crocodiles, crocodile eggs, wooden sarcophagi and crocodile fetuses, and depictions of crocodile deities and rituals that provide insight into the significance of crocodiles in ancient Egyptian culture. Crocodiles were associated with the god Sobek, who symbolized power, fertility, and protection. The museum highlights how crocodiles were mummified and worshiped as manifestations of this powerful deity.

Done with the temple and museum, we had some free time for shopping (with bargaining skills + tolerating the hawkers skills). I had a small chat with Chandrakant Bhate, while walking back to the cruise. He has joined the tour with his wife Anuradha Bhate. We had a mocktail and dance party followed by dinner at 7pm. 

Post dinner, most of the explorers went to sleep, including my roomate. A few of us were roaming around the swimming pool, having self time at a cruise corner, lying down on the deck and star gazing, reading from the library, playing pool game, etc. It was a quiet and chilled night, much needed for the exhausted souls like me. The cruise was sailing towards Edfu and we had to wake up early morning for the Edfu temple visit. More on the temple in next post.

Read next: Around Africa: Part Ten